ARGENTINA 40 days in Buenos Aires 20 days travelling

2009-09-07T06:39:00.000-07:00

August 23: Tigre

2009-09-07T06:38:00.000-07:00

We still had never experienced the train in Argentina. Many of them in Retiro station were heading to Tigre. It was the perfect occasion to visit a lovely area and enjoy the funky train. Tigre is a nice little town built in 1820, located on the Parana Delta and just an hour far from north Buenos Aires. The main parts of the town sit on an island created by the river and numerous streams. The port was especially developped to serve the Delta. We could tell by the popular "Puerto de frutos" (fruit port) and the riverside crafts fair (wood and wicker are a most) the port was still quite active. The town knows violent flood desvastation though. As a result, most of the houses are heightened and that surely gives a particular charm to the island. Children go to school on boat, the trees grow in the water among the twigs and there are boat gaz stations lying all over the river. That is certainly not a good advertisement for Greenpeace but it's fun and surprising. We visited the island with a lovely boat tour and spent some time on the "continent". Back to Buenos Aires, we enjoyed a friendly gathering over an electro-chacarera concert in "La Catedral" underground milonga for our farewell night in Capital Federal.

2009-09-07T06:33:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T06:31:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T06:30:00.001-07:00

2009-09-07T06:29:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T06:28:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T06:27:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T06:26:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T06:25:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T06:24:00.000-07:00

August 16>24: Back to BUENOS AIRES

2009-09-07T06:12:00.001-07:00

Our trip to north Argentina developped new desires, emotions and point of views. We had forgotten what a different world Buenos Aires was. Capital Federal totally felt like another country. The moment was perfect as the colourful tango festival had just started for the whole week. We kept ourselves busy with a great deal of activities the city was offering for the occasion: concerts, shows, tango lessons, singers, dancers, outdoors and indoors exhibitions, museums and a lot more. We visited a few cafés "notable" (ancient, historical and very popular cafés in Buenos Aires) such as "Las violetas", "Café Tortoni", "Los angelitos" where we delighted in seeing older elegant generations drink their coffee while reading their daily newspaper. Charming spirit indeed as it really reminded me one of those 50's tango-mafia-dolce vita movies. Museo Larreta was one of the final discoveries in our argentinian trip. We slipped into a very spaniard environment (some interesting clues to understand the context where all started) since andalusian garden, masterpieces and architecture are enclosed in this beautiful museum. Olé!

2009-09-07T05:52:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T05:21:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T05:17:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T05:14:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T04:39:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T04:37:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T04:21:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T04:12:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T03:47:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T03:45:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T03:44:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T03:39:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T03:38:00.001-07:00

2009-09-07T03:06:00.000-07:00

2009-09-07T03:04:00.001-07:00

2009-09-07T03:03:00.001-07:00

2009-09-07T02:58:00.000-07:00

August 15-16: Back to SALTA

2009-09-04T18:12:00.001-07:00

The "gauchos" are very proud of who they are as the community truely believes in the strengh of its land (Salta) and identity. They are not wrong at that point since most argentinians suffer from the fact they are children of colonists. When we arrived in Salta early morning, we came across a national ceremony in the main square "9 de Julio". Obviously, gauchos were royally posing with their horses and several patriotic speeches were theatrically pronounced with convinction and honour. Very expressive scene with begging trumpets and crying tambourine. I was amused by the show and asked for some more by celebrating our ultimate night in Salta in a charming chacarera bar!!

2009-09-04T18:11:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T18:09:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T18:08:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T17:23:00.001-07:00

2009-09-04T17:21:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T17:09:00.000-07:00

August 14: YAVI

2009-09-04T16:42:00.000-07:00

Yavi is just 15 minutes far from La Quiaca but going there was not as easy as we thought. At 6 in the evening no bus, no train, no taxi, no "coche" (short distance taxi), nothing could bring us there. We kept asking around for some tips: fruitless! Shall we go on foot? We had no clue what way to go (travelling without a map!!) until a man waved at us from his car and shouted: "Yavi!!" as if he guessed our embarassment. This father of three children was heading to Yavi anyway as he lived there with his family. He suggested to give us a lift and bring us back to La Quiaca for a few pesos. We happily accepted and crowded into the car next to the children and the angry wife... Yavi is peaceful, timeless, charming. Very interesting architecture (unique in the area) since adobe attractive houses with straw, clay and brick roofs give to the village its particular appeal. The 1540 (!) ancient church almost looks like the one in Uquia. White and elegant facade, golden and mysterious heart. On the way back, the twilight landscapes were simply stunning.

We enjoyed La Quiaca for a few more hours and waited for the last bus to Salta. Later, while all the passengers were having some sleep, the police brutaly entered the bus in the middle of the night (aroung 4am) and asked everyone to get off the vehicule with his personnal belongings. Luggage in the street, confusion in the air, passports ready, it suddenly turned into a military dictatorship. We never knew the purpose of this arrest but we surely noticed bolivian stamps were not welcomed!! Just a small bridge between the two countries and... a large disdain?

2009-09-04T16:38:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T16:36:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T16:34:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T16:29:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T16:21:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T16:19:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T16:14:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T16:05:00.000-07:00

August 14-15: LA QUIACA

2009-09-04T06:54:00.001-07:00

Everybody discouraged us to visit La Quiaca: "Es muy feo!" (it's very ugly!) Yet that repeated sentence strongly awakened our curiosity to visit the town. Listening to the description people made about it, we were expecting a very primitive poor little village. We were actually quite surprised to face a real town with an existing bus terminal, colored streets (some of them are even well-equipped), restaurants, parks, schools and a lot more. La Quiaca is almost a bolivian town as it is precisely located at the border with Bolivia (nearest bolivian city being Villazon) and there is a simple bridge separating the two countries (besides, argentinians usually mention La Quiaca to refer to something that is very far away). But La Quiaca is not all-smiles. Historically and until now, many bolivians overloaded with goods would rather cross the bridge daily to work in La Quiaca for miserable salaries (yet higher than the ones they could get in their own country). The main market reflects the current difficult situation, also does the bus terminal that is permenently full of people holding one million bags waiting to go home.

The bus to La Quiaca stopped infront of a school (usually located in the countryside in order to be close to several villages at once) and a bunch of children jumped in. Right at that moment, Javier, a beautiful child, started to chat with us. He pointed at where he lived from the window. This half bolivian kid shares the house with his sister and grandmother, he almost never meets his parents as they work in other cities but he's healthy, goes to school and have friends. Javier's situation can be defined as privileged since numerous orphans or poorer families hang around in town. Javier suddenly disappeared as the bus arrived at destination. We regretted not saying goodbye. But the young fellow was waiting for us outside with a smile and affectionately insisted on showing us the town. I fell in love with that little boy who was surprisingly mature and wise. Later on, we offered him strawberries and exchanged a farewell hug as we were heading to Yavi for the evening.

2009-09-04T06:51:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T06:49:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T06:46:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T06:43:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T06:41:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T06:39:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T06:36:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T06:33:00.001-07:00

2009-09-04T06:01:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T06:00:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T05:58:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T05:55:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T05:52:00.000-07:00

August 14: UQUIA

2009-09-04T04:25:00.000-07:00

We decided to spend the morning in Uquia village before heading to La Quiaca the same day. We took a groovy old bus to reach lost "Cerro de las Senoritas" hill located in the village itself as we heard the valley offered cute little walks among the farms. Shortly after we jumped out of the bus, I realized I had left my (only) sweater on the seat and as soon as I turned around to run after the vehicule, the bus speeded up in the horizon. Hell no!! An old lady who witnessed the scene relieved me when she said she was in charge of the bus line in Uquia and could call the Tilacara bus terminal to get the sweater back. Quick let's warn them before it's too late! She then lazily searched for the number in the yellow pages, pointed her finger at different information and when she nodded later on (that gesture gave me hope!) she just said: "where is that number?" Time seemed endless and I was kept in suspense for few long minutes. Finally, when she made her call (and charged me a few centavos!) she suggested me to wait for my "campera" (sweater) in Humahuaca... We didn't want Uquia to hold bad memories so we tried to enjoy the village after all, delighted in walking in the pleasant countyside, picked up some dried fruits used for making craft dolls, had fun with those funky old "Ford" trunks and visited the 1691 golden "Capilla de los Angeles Arcabuceros" (one of the most ancient churches in Jujuy province decorated with spanish knights' (called angels at that time) painted portraits).

As soon as we arrived in Humahuaca, we only had 2 hours left before heading to La Quiaca. We asked for the sweater and the only answer we could get was to wait for the next bus to come. That we did (while having lunch), three buses showed up one after the other and no "campera" in sight: "Sorry we forgot, next one!!" La Quiaca bus was about to leave. As we had no more news from beloved pullover, I sadly got into the vehicule when suddenly a hasty bus appeared with smiling driver grasping the sweater in one hand. In the village, with just a small instance I learnt to trust life and human ways! ;)

2009-09-04T04:24:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T04:19:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T01:29:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T01:26:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T01:22:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T01:18:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T01:17:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T01:11:00.000-07:00

2009-09-04T01:08:00.000-07:00

August 13: IRUYA

2009-08-30T05:30:00.001-07:00

One of the things we were recommended to visit in Humahuaca area was Iruya lost-in-translation village. The rotten old bus did not look very convincing but somehow the journey already sounded promising. The first 30 min were a little disapointing and boring, the seats were unconfortable and the vehicle seemed heavy but as soon as the bus shifted to the right out of the main road in the heart of the mountain dizzy "pistas", the displeasing trip turned absolutely awful and... so exciting!! A three hour drive on rocks, sand and bushes. The bus wriggled all over in a terrible continuous sound, honking to the venerable elderly cliffs, dropping off one or two people from time to time in the middle of nowhere and shaking all the excursion long. The view was stunning and absolutely intimidating while the bus looked way too small and clueless. Glancing at the horizon full of neverending mountains, we could not believe a village could stand there so isolated at the end of the world. Still, Iruya suddenly showed up at 2780m height: it really exists!! When we got out of the bus, we were dusty, dirty and shivering for a few minutes. In the village, we could enjoy the amazing silence, upside down roads and the particular atmosphere which reigned in the region. We had to reach Humahuaca the same evening, no need to say the way back was exhausting!

2009-08-30T05:28:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:27:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:26:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:25:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:20:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:14:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:12:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:11:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:10:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:08:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:06:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:05:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T05:02:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T04:58:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T04:54:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T04:53:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T04:48:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T04:46:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T04:01:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T04:00:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T03:58:00.000-07:00

2009-08-30T03:56:00.000-07:00

August 12-13-14: HUMAHUACA

2009-08-29T16:47:00.001-07:00

Humahuaca welcomed us with "Inti Sayana" four room hidden hotel. Diego the owner was a quiet, wise, sensitive, fatherly grizzled man. He fixed us breakfast every morning with love and affection, boiling the milk in the old pan, preparing us his own home-made "ciruela" (plum) and "membrillo" (quince) garden jams, grilling the bread in the oven, warming up some coffee and telling us stories about Jujuy province. The village is one of the largest in the area. The majestic "Liberty" monument surrounded by cactus trees stands on top of the stairs that connect the most important square to one of the main roads. The bolivian market takes place in the plaza (we bought coca tea imported from bolivia!) and people usually gather there at noon to watch St Francisco Solano's statue and pointed-to-the-sky arm coming out from an iron door built in the church facade. A little discovery close the bus terminal made our day as we came across a very modest, unseen and covered market only locals go to. A whole different scenery, a more authentic world. Since we mainly experienced Humahuaca late evenings (and travelled around for two days as the area allows great hikes in the mountains), we tested different local restaurants for diner. Many of them include free traditionnal music concerts (the andean flute is a star!). "El Portillo" was our favorite as father and son emotionaly played together while Chico (meaning "small") the huge dalmatian was pleasantly greeting every customer.

2009-08-29T16:46:00.000-07:00

2009-08-29T16:24:00.002-07:00

2009-08-29T16:24:00.001-07:00

2009-08-29T16:23:00.000-07:00

2009-08-29T16:20:00.000-07:00

2009-08-29T16:19:00.000-07:00

2009-08-29T16:18:00.000-07:00