July 2: carne rica rica in Palermo Soho !!

Any vegetarian becomes a true carnivore in Argentina. Ten days in Buenos Aires were enough to discover the meat lover that I am (and that I never was!). "Desnivel" had gently started to wake up my palate with new flavours. However, "La Cabrera" unforgettable experience was much more convincing. That joyful parilla is located in the Palermo Soho district (there are also Palermo viejo, Palermo hollywood and simply Palermo where we visited Eva Peron's museum) which looks pretty much like the Soho quarter in NYC as chic stores, nice galleries, elegant design, stylish accommodation gather in the area. I also came across much smaller streets (rare in huge Buenos Aires) with captivating european appeal and breathtaking architecture (especially in avenida 9 de Julio, Congreso district)... The mosaics on the floor remind me of Portugal and the black-and-white tiles fly me back to Italy. Somehow, Berlin is not far as well.

Europe, New-York, Latin America. Yes, Argentina is not only about meat, dulce de leche (amazing caramel desert) and tango. It is difficult indeed to define a typical argentinian as the capital itself is so versatile. Portenos (Buenos Aires residents) ironically joke about it saying "they descended from the boats"! In fact the whole country reveals a wide range of different looks, origins (from Lebanon too!!), styles and landscapes due to immigration, colonial heritage, geography and fierce history. Complex identity..

June 28: Carlos Gardel all over!

A sunday afternoon in San Telmo means must-see crowded bric-à-brac markets in calle Defensa and the Antiguo Mercado. While Defensa's groovy market like to be called "Feria de Pedro San Telmo", the lovely Mercado is known as "Patio de artesanos" (paseo Ezeiza is also worth it !). Leather crafts, vintage clothes, antique and jewelry are a most. Still, I couldn't resist browsing the funky glasses at the 70's-style stall. As we got closer to Plaza Dorrego, we could listen to passionate tango rythms in the streets. I must say, can we ever describe Buenos Aires without mentioning fantastic tango singer Carlos Gardel?

Gardel "El Mago" (the magician) was and still IS one of the most important figures in Argentina. He lived in Abasto discrict in the french-named calle Jean Jaurès (strange coïncidence as rumors spread that he was born in France). The house facade (actually some parts of the street as well) is wonderfully painted. It is not surprising to see Gardel's portrait on several walls, in every milonga and even the subway station (colorful indeed) !! An obsession? Not as long as the saying goes: "Cada dià canta mejor" (Gardel sings better every day)...