August 4: SAN IGNACIO

Situated in the province of Missiones, San Ignacio is one of the most important "reducciones" (primitive towns) in the area. Those structured little villages Jesuits created in 1609 as religious "missions" for the spanish monarchy (the true aim being to convert native indians to christianity- these "tribes" were called Guarani) started to grow wider, multiple and more independent over the years. When the Bourbons succeeded to the Habsbourgs though, the reducciones liberal hint was not appreciated anymore. A violent pitiless war ended the Jesuits/Guarani utopia. On the other hand, the Guarani era disapeared forever. San Ignacio ruins remain spectacular, beautiful, emotional and talkative. A most when afternoon sunshine reveals the mysteries of mourning relics.

On the way back, we had to wait for the 1AM bus heading to Corrientes. No one knew about any bus station around the village (as it is not built yet!!). The only advice we could get was to stand up on the main (desert) street and stop the bus when it gets there. Is that a joke? As we had no other choice, that we did in the middle of nowhere and as simple and absurd as it sounded, the bus gently showed up right on time to pick us up...

August 2: IGUAZU

A ticket reservation in the Buenos Aires crowded "omnibus" terminal, a 17 hour bus journey (we reached the Brazilian border!), two annoying american movies on TV (and a Thai manga: I wonder who selected the features!), diner and breakfast served on board, a glass of champagne to sleep tight, a few "cumbia" swings on the radio, a youth hostel randomly chosen to dop our bags off, another 40 min-drive in the "practico", expensive entrance tickets to the Iguazu national park... were necessary to get to the Cataratas waterfalls!! However costly and tiring, it is totally worth the trip!! Breathtaking landscapes, stunning jungle, surpising animals (such as ant lover coatis), everlasting rainbow, impressive water flows, growing water clouds splashing all of a sudden... Who would believe such peaceful water could turn into obsessive rage and danger? Violent indeed yet the waterfalls only inspired hypnotic beauty. We had a blast!

Back to "Oasis" hippie hostel, a dressed-up transvestite welcomed us at the reception with tasty maracuja (passion fruit) margaritas, fresh caïpiriña lemons and nice boobies (!)... At night, this easy-going guest house (garden included) turns into a cute brazilian cocktail bar. I must say, it really felt like an Almodovar movie!!