August 12-13-14: HUMAHUACA

Humahuaca welcomed us with "Inti Sayana" four room hidden hotel. Diego the owner was a quiet, wise, sensitive, fatherly grizzled man. He fixed us breakfast every morning with love and affection, boiling the milk in the old pan, preparing us his own home-made "ciruela" (plum) and "membrillo" (quince) garden jams, grilling the bread in the oven, warming up some coffee and telling us stories about Jujuy province. The village is one of the largest in the area. The majestic "Liberty" monument surrounded by cactus trees stands on top of the stairs that connect the most important square to one of the main roads. The bolivian market takes place in the plaza (we bought coca tea imported from bolivia!) and people usually gather there at noon to watch St Francisco Solano's statue and pointed-to-the-sky arm coming out from an iron door built in the church facade. A little discovery close the bus terminal made our day as we came across a very modest, unseen and covered market only locals go to. A whole different scenery, a more authentic world. Since we mainly experienced Humahuaca late evenings (and travelled around for two days as the area allows great hikes in the mountains), we tested different local restaurants for diner. Many of them include free traditionnal music concerts (the andean flute is a star!). "El Portillo" was our favorite as father and son emotionaly played together while Chico (meaning "small") the huge dalmatian was pleasantly greeting every customer.

August 12: TILCARA

While we were waiting for the bus heading to Tilcara, I couldn't stop starring at the beautiful children playing around but also the old dressed-up bolivian women (I suppose from the outfit) coming and going with their multiple bags, coca leaves and charming flat hats. What a lovely scenery!

Tilcara was only half an hour away from Purmamarca and we unexpectedly decided to spend a couple of hours there to have a look. The structures of each village in the area are geometrical, squared and quite similar: a central plaza (surrounded by low little houses) where most important ceremonies and the daily market take place, a catholic church, a school, a few "comedor" and craftsmen shops. We visited the market and got some nice local music hints. A random man preparing a smooth dough in the street offered us some warm freshly baked bread. We wandered in the streets of Tilcara but did not have much time to get to the Pucará de Tilcara (a few kilometers away from the village) partially reconstructed pre-Inca ruins and mirador. The bus to Humahuaca was already waiting for us in the dusty terminal.