July 13: Boats, ports and men

Following Borges words: "Portenos descended from the boats", modern Puerto Madero became an unavoidable spot to discover. This stunning port is one of the most urban sites in Buenos aires since foreign architects, sculptors and designers such as Santiago Calatrava and Philippe Starck have been working on several projects located in the area. A wonderful afternoon walk by La Plata river leads you to impressive "La Puente de la Mujer" bridge (designed by spanish Calatrava). Although Argentinans are quite proud of this famous monument, both "La Puente de La Boca" bridge (La Boca district) and "El Obelisco" (Plaza de la Republica) are the emblematic faces of Buenos Aires.

While Puerto Madero seems to be very trendy, de luxe and up-to-date with the lastest fashion hints, La Boca port is way too miserable, unsecure and misfortuned. Although La Boca cannot get away from its dreadful reputation, the neighbourhood (summed up by the "Caminito", unique street foreigners can visit) includes charming colored houses, beautiful exhibitions, "cafés notables" (antique cafés), famous musicians, poets and artists (such as Quinquela Martin who was born in "villa misera" shanty town. Football player Maradona is also absolutely worshipped). A few "conventillos" (large house divided into several little rooms without water nor electricity shared and rented by different families) have been converted into handcraft shops. Some locals would say Tango was born in the dirt-poor La Boca whorehouses. Others would rather defend San Telmo while many of them would prefer La Boeda, Caballito, Pompeya and Palermo, yet everyone agrees on night Tango practice always being disdained. On the other hand, afternoon dancing joined a whole different respected serious world. Dirty dark Tango?! Nowadays our generation describe that old "bad boy" as elegant, refined and sensual.

June 9: Independence day with the Gauchos

Taking the "colectivo" (local bus) is an everyday adventure. Finding the bus stations is a miracle as they almost do not exist. A scratched number on a piece of wall, an unreadable sticker on a pillar or simply people waving in the street are important indications to grasp a hasty bus in the public transport maze. As soon as you reach the oppened frontdoor make sure to get in as fast as a flash since the bus never stops. Don't be surprised if you end up with a foot outside, a torn sweater, bent over to pick your falling coins up from the floor. Luckily, rear-view fluffy blue feather mirrors, driver whistling a Pink-Floyd song out loud, techno music coming out from the radio, impractical old-fashionned ticket machine, surely bring a grin on your face.

After a one hour bus ride, we finally made it to best-kept secret "Feria de los Mataderos", located in the poorest sectors of Buenos Aires (Barrio Liniers). Argentinians gather in this beautiful popular market every "finde" (week-end) to share home made typical food (humitas, tamales, empanadas, choripans, panchos (hot dog), sweets and so on), listen to outdoors folk concerts, dance "Zamba", attend the Gauchos-horsemen (cow-boys) show and warm up with a strong "Maté" (traditionnal herbal beverage). In addition to this, "Locro" (meat stew native Indian tribes used to cook during the Spanish conquest) celebrates the independence day (june 9). Some locals would discreetly point at their dissatisfaction: "Independent country?!" Censorship is apparently alive. While most people would rather let go, the walls are being talkative.