Monday, August 17, 2009

August 7: MOLINOS

A 48 km stony trail lead us to Molinos. Built in the middle of an oasis, the village appears to be trapped in a space of time. The attractive colonial architecture reveals the spanish culture influence. 16th century San Pedro de Nolasco golden church is one of the oldest in the area (the most ancient one being Uquia's San Francisco di Paula "Capilla de los Arcabuceros" and Yavi's church built in 1540). Though Molinos enjoys afternoon naps (we could tell by the dead sleeping dogs in the streets. Besides most villages in north-west Argentina live on the same tempo!), a curious villager on his bicycle approched us, gently questionned us, showed us his favorite spots (especially the vicunas breeding), informed us about the village and even suggested to meet later in the church to go on with the conversation. The clear winter day turned summer hot all at once. However, fresh orange juices, pic-nic lunch in the breezy tree shadows, a walk among huge cactus bushes, announced the cold night to come.

On our way to Cafayate, dazzled by Calchaqui valleys' beauty, we stopped at a wooden house (also hostel) standing among the silent mountains (close to Angastaco and near an antique church). This little paradise looked empty and out of service but shortly after I pushed the door, music magicaly came out from the patio unveiling seductive hidden dressed tables in the tea room. A young lady suddenly greeted us with a sensual "Hola" (hello) and welcomed us for coffee. Chacarera pianist Aldolfo Abalos' music then came into my mind, it really suited the place!

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